Location, location, location seems to be the calling card for Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello. After his first spring 2019 menswear presentation at New Jersey’s Liberty State Park, Vaccarello moved the spring 2019 women’s show in Paris to the base of the Eiffel Tower (complete with an infinity pool and faux palm trees) and then took last night’s early 2020 menswear outing to Paradise Cove in Malibu, alongside a crashing ocean surf under a cliff laden with real palms.
Guests had the option of checking their shoes in a cloakroom before a traipse over the sandy beach (with glasses of champagne in hand) to a makeshift wood-plank runway. The front row of the Malibu show was packed with stars wearing Saint Laurent, including Laura Dern, Keanu Reeves (holding hands with his artist business partner Alexandra Grant), Reeves’ stylist Jeanne Yang, Lakeith Stanfield, Joe Keery, Amber Heard, Salma Hayek, Hailey Baldwin, Nicole Richie and power couple Miley Cyrus and Liam Hemsworth, who also held hands during the event. (Cyrus and Hemsworth previously wore Saint Laurent when they stepped out at the Met Gala.)
For Vaccarello’s second menswear show, the lineup of the brand’s glittery, androgynous looks (heavy on black) was inspired by Marrakesh in the ‘70s and he specifically had two muses in mind: French musician and actor Serge Gainsbourg and music legend Mick Jagger. The official show statement particularly cited inspiration as the Rolling Stones 1975 Tour of the Americas and its “ultimate, timeless bohemian attitude.” Vaccarello told The Hollywood Reporter that he became inspired “after meeting Mick Jagger for his upcoming tour; he showed me his wardrobe and I was particularly attracted by the details, the colors, the attitude.” (Jagger will wear pieces by Saint Laurent on his upcoming No Filter tour that kicks off in Chicago later this month).
In the mix were Saint Laurent’s signature cropped jackets (from bombers and Western-inspired Le Smoking to band boy), second-skin pants in leather, denim and rich velvets, and skinny fringed scarves — all rock star-ready. Things lightened up for the West Coast (and the journey to Marrakesh) with a series of white looks, including an ivory satin suit or two that channeled Jagger, as did a white satin shirt worn open and tied near the navel, paired with matching trousers and white sneakers. Relaxed pieces peppered throughout synched up with the surroundings. There were new frayed denim cutoff shorts, kimono tops and jackets (including a standout beaded kimono jacket with a degradé print), djellabas, tasseled ponchos and robes and lots of straw Western hats. The show marked a movement of the label’s sharply tailored proportions into more languid, volumized silhouettes such as billowy harem trousers. Vaccarello artfully fused all the seemingly disparate pieces into a season-less, gender-fluid and decidedly glam wardrobe.
After the seaside runway show, several stars weighed in with THR. “I love anything that feels like it’s fluid, and I just think anyone can wear these clothes,” Cyrus said. “It’s so beautiful and there’s so much diversity, I love it. I love ‘70s rock ‘n’ roll and I think this just embodied the spirit of ‘70s rock ‘n’ roll, so I love it.”
Standing near a bonfire at the afterparty, Stanfield (noting that he has been to about five Saint Laurent shows to date) gave his review: “I thought it was beautiful, and I loved the backdrop of the beach. The new collection looks quite nice, particularly those shoes. I don’t know if they were leopard, but I loved them. I liked the satin pants as well. I always like the [Saint Laurent] shows because they are super fun, fancy, nice and easy-breezy. There’s always some cool item I see and I’m like, ‘I want that!’”
Warming up near another fire, Stranger Things star Keery said: “A friend just told me that it’s cool to think about a show as the equivalent to an album. I’ve only been able to go to a couple fashion shows, maybe three total. And it was really cool to watch this show, especially in this location, with that in mind. Seeing the individual pieces as a collection. I really liked one of the white double-breasted suits. There were a couple cool suit looks. I always gravitate towards the suits!”
Added stylist Jeanne Yang, “What a perfect match — the Stevie Nicks-inspired collection on the beach, looking up at her old place in Malibu.”
This article originally appeared on The Hollywood Reporter.