?Iconic singer, poet and novelist Leonard Cohen has a rich history in Montreal, his birth city and the inspiration of many of his biggest hits (as well as those of several other artists who were close to him). Although many of his longtime favorite haunts are now closed, you can still experience the city’s charm through Cohen’s eyes, ears and taste buds at the following local highlights.
??Cohen was raised in Westmount, a wealthy neighborhood on the southern slopes of Mont Royal. He would return to his childhood home (located at 599 Belmont Ave.) with onetime girlfriend Joni Mitchell, who immortalized her visit in the song “Rainy Night House.” Often described as the Beverly Hills of Montreal, Westmount is ideal to explore on foot, with beautiful mansions and sweeping views of the city, particularly from King George Park, located just a few blocks from Cohen’s former residence.??
“When I was about 13 years old,” Cohen wrote in an unpublished piece called “The Juke-Box Heart: Excerpt From a Journal,” “I’d walk miles along Saint Catherine Street, a night-lover, peeking into marble-tabled cafeterias where men wore overcoats even in the summer.” Dunn’s Birdland, a small club over a Jewish deli where Cohen got his start, is long gone, but Montreal’s main commercial strip remains home to many of the city’s best venues, including the prestigious Place des Arts (laplacedesarts.com), Metropolis (metropolismontreal.ca) and jazz-focused Upstairs (upstairsjazz.com), which channels the smoky poetry clubs of Cohen’s youth.??
Cobblestoned Old Montreal, just off the St. Lawrence River, is the backdrop of Cohen’s song “Suzanne,” inspired by his relationship with Suzanne Verdal (and famously covered by Judy Collins). The couple would walk together and watch sailors enter from the harbor near the 18th-century Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel (marguerite-bourgeoys.com). Climb the steeple for amazing harbor views.
?Hoping to spot Cohen in the flesh? Try Parc du Portugal, near his current home in the Plateau, where Cohen sometimes sits with old friends. After you’ve taken in the scenery, stroll down Saint-Laurent Boulevard for a slice of Old Montreal at one of Cohen’s go-to eateries, Main Deli Steak House (maindelisteakhouse.com), a perfect introduction to the city’s famous smoked-meat sandwiches.