Furry alien creature-like fembots strutted down the catwalk at Lady Gaga creative director Nicola Formichetti's Mugler runway show yesterday (Feb. 29) in Paris. Models rocking Gaga-esque thorny nails, patent leather, and bug-eyed masks subtly hinted to Formichetti's "insect" inspiration for the collection.
"It was about Asia and insects -- the Insect show was my favorite Mugler collection in 1997," explained Nicola Formichetti, backstage, speaking to his inspiration for the collection. "She's not really sexual; she's sharper, but at the same time very refined. That was our girl this season." Or, as he wrote in his show notes: "Mugler woman might sting, bite or scratch this season."
This was Formichetti's third show for the brand and the first without any musical contribution from Lady Gaga. Without the musical talents of Gaga, the show this year was purely about the fashion, and the bugs. The collection consisted of bony peplums, aggressive black leather and sheer form-fitting dresses. Nicola's fall collection suggested a move toward something bewitching, and more functional to wear. Mini-skirts with fin-like panels and rubberized peplumed white dresses added a snaky futurism to tops and bottoms.
So what about the music? Composed by Ryuichi Sakamoto, the Japanese classical sound illustrator famed for his work in The Last Emperor, created a transient electro-classic sound all mixed live by runway DJ extraordinaire, Michel Gaubert.
The overall acoustic was moody, haunting, murky. The ghostly tempo included subtle background buzzing, making viewers think there was a giant fly loose in the room. Where is that fly swatter when you need it?